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There’s a timeless simplicity to hand woodworking tools. They’ve remained unchanged for centuries, and yet are still the tools of choice for many craftsmen, woodworkers and carpenters. They offer a higher level of precision and control than their powered counterparts, won’t require batteries or cords to get up and running, nor pierce eardrums. Silent, effective and safe. Hand tools are also easier to get around, being lightweight and simple to maneuver.
These are also the tools that most beginners start with. Honing your woodworking skills and understanding the basics of the craft will make you a better craftsman in the long run. Hand woodworking tools let you conceptualise your task, are more forgiving in errors, and allow for finer details that set workpieces apart. Once you master these like the back of your hand, you will appreciate the speed and outright power in larger powered tools.
Which Woodworking Hand Tools Should You Consider First?
Workbenches
Before purchasing any woodworking tools, consider a dedicated workspace. This needs to be big enough for a sizeable workbench, either wood or steel, with a vice for holding the workpiece you’re working on. Workbenches needn’t be anything fancy, but something durable, stable and sturdy to handle a range of tools, be with thicker wooden tops and of the right height and width.
Planes

Jack planes are general-purpose bench planes used in bringing timber down to size and are often the first tools in removing imperfections in the wood. A sharp low-angle jack plane can also help with board edge jointing and in finishing tasks in smoothing boards to a cleaner look. Straightening board edges can also be done with a jointer or try plane. These are also good for flattening the faces of larger boards. Where precision counts, especially in smaller details, look for a block plane, These are smaller tools used in trimming, chamfering, and shaving off thinner wood slices.
Saws
You will need saws that cut along the grain or rips saws, and those that cut across the grain, or cross-cut saws. These are instances of panel saws, with a coarser set and larger teeth ideal for cutting into rough wooden surfaces. For finer cuts, get a pair of backsaws, as these have smaller and finer teeth set on a thinner plate. Backsaws come in different variations, with dovetail saws having fine rip teeth and good for cutting along the grain in joinery work, tenon saws for deeper cuts and along the grain. and carcass saws used in precision cuts across the grain.
Other types of saws will work with the removal of excess materials, like that done with a small coping saw, or larger precision and angled cuts achieved with a mitre hand saw set in a mitre box. Apart from mitre saws, all saws listed above are relatively affordable and mastering these will give the confidence in using powered saws.
Chisels
The are dozens of chisel types used in carving, cutting and chopping wood. General-purpose bench chisels come with bevel or flat edges and will be fine for starters, but there are mortise chisels used for creating rectangular holes or mortises, smaller paring chisels used only with the hands (others require mallets or hammers) and slow removal or paring of finer wood slices. Chisels can consist of wooden or plastic handles and be of the sturdier socket type or tang chisels with the metal tangs fastened inside the handle. You’ll also find chisel kits with specialty chisels with cutting edges offered in different widths and angles. Go for carbon steel if your budget allows.
Mallets and Hammers

Carpenter’s or joiner mallets are made entirely of hardwood like oak, beech or maple and used with chisels. Rubber mallets are good in assembly work, especially in bigger pieces of furniture. Mallets with nylon or polythene heads are used in tapping smaller workpieces. There are also specialty froe mallets for splitting logs from green wood.
Hammers shouldn’t be used with chisels (if you want them to last) but instead for driving fasteners or removing nails. Smaller metal hammers will be better for brads and nails without ruining your work and when adjusting blades in wood planes.
Measuring and Marking Tools
Before any cuts are done, you’ll want the right measuring and marking tools. Try squares are set at right angles and used in squaring up workpieces for precision joints. This allows users to mark boards or workpieces before cutting. A sliding bevel is good in repetition cuts at the same (or varying) angles along the workpiece. Marking gauges are essential tools for repeating and transferring markings and some variants leave shallow cuts into the wood.
Ultimately, you’ll also want a combination square, consisting of a steel ruler and protractor for measuring inside and outside angles, creating markings, with a fitted spirit level, and straightening out pieces to the correct angles. Lastly, look to tape measures and folding rulers in getting the overall dimensions of the project to the desired lengths, height and width. Markings can be done with a sharper marking knife or an ordinary pencil.
Sharpening Tools

You’ll always want sharp tools. Planes, saws and chisels will see regular sharpening to give more precise and quicker cuts. Waterstones with different grit or sharpness will be good in getting sharp edges in chisels. To get precise angles in different chisels, make use of honing guides. And for saws you’ll first use files, then excess metal is removed with a diamond grinding wheel. Teeth, edges and blades can be brought to a sharp finish with a leather strop.
Building your tool collection takes time, and trial and error will teach you what works for you. You won’t be using all the tools listed above in every project, but some basics like a jack plane, plane saw, bevel edge bench chisel and simple measuring and marking tools should be the first items on your shopping list. Later on, as your skills grow, so will your tool kit.




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